CINNAMON RANGER STATION, Gallatin National Forest, Montana. One-time Home of Clyde trovotinuldes.gq, Co-Author,. Page Page BUILDING WITH LOGS. There are three prime reasons for using logs in house construction. First, a log house Perhaps this comes from log construction being old in Canadian history. SUMMER SALE The Log Construction Manual is fully revised and updated. A new printing -- now in FULL COLOR on every page. Hundreds of new photos.
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Learn how to build handcrafted log homes through hands-on workshops and the Log You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader to view or print "PDF" downloads. Construction Manual. 1. Delivery Day. By now you should have the construction site for your new log home prepared for delivery. Your logs will be coming on a. red cedar, Sitka spruce, Douglas fir, and western hemlock all are excel- lent log building materials if they are straight and of the size required for your building.
Remember, a shell of a house is only a fraction of the work.
This guide is good about detailing the ways to finish it off, and the tricks need to say, get wiring in the logs. At the highest end of quality is Log Construction Manual , the Ferrari of log homes. You get a comprehensive course, laying out the steps, the logic of the steps, and much hard-earned wisdom anticipating your problems as you learn how to scribe-fit logs into a house.
But to be honest, the precision and energy needed to build this way demands you hire contractor help. In many ways, building a fitted-log cabin is like building a wooden boat in your backyard.
Many will begin, few will finish on their own. The magnitude of this quest should not be underestimated. Cutting the groove while standing on the wall. You need a steady hand and a good sense of balance. A true and accurate cut may be obtained with a chainsaw equipped with guide pads.
These are now available commercially, or they can be made. One of the most widespread and damaging myths is that log homes use extravagant amounts of wood. It does appear that "you could build a couple homes out of the logs that go into one log house," as I've heard people say. But, an average log home uses about the same volume of trees as a conventional, stickframed house of the same size.
On each wall, we alternate the direction that tips and butts point every time we add another log. This helps keep walls from becoming tipped. I recommend you build walls so that the centerline of each log is plumb above the center of the wall.
Trying to make one side of a wall more or less plumb can be difficult, unattractive, and perhaps unstable. A tightly-fitting round notch. Note that there are no saddles, so it is not a saddle notch. Husqvarna XP with 24" bar. Use of a kiln can reduce the drying time from many months to several weeks. Glue-laminated timber[ edit ] "Laminated" or "engineered" logs are a different approach to log-house building.
Full trees or alternatively sawn cants unfinished logs to be further processed are brought to a mill with a dry kiln, the bark is removed and the trees are sawn into boards usually no more than two inches thick. These boards are then taken to the dry kiln, where because of their size they can be dried without causing severe damage to the wood.
The drying process varies on the species of lumber, but can be done in as little as a week. Once the drying process is complete the planks are sent through a surfacer or planer , which makes the face of the lumber perfectly smooth.
These planks travel to a machine, which then spreads a special glue on the interior boards. Depending on the type of glue and type of mill, there are two ways to finish the lamination process. One type of glue reacts with radio-frequency RF energy to cure the glue in minutes; the other uses a high-pressure clamp, which holds the newly reassembled timbers under pressure for 24 hours.
Once the glue has dried, the result is a "log cant" that is slightly larger than the downloader's desired profile. These log cants are run through a profiler, and the end result is a log that is perfectly straight and uniform.
Some mills are capable of joining together small timbers by using a combination of face and edge gluing and a process known as finger- jointing.
Boards which would be scrap at another mill may be used in the center of a laminated log or beam to minimize waste. Types of milled logs[ edit ] Milled log homes employ a variety of profiles which are usually specified by the customer: D-shape logs: round on the outside and flat inside Full-round logs: fully round inside and out Square logs: flat inside and out, and may be milled with a groove which could be chinked.
Finishes for Log Walls Kb A comprehensive page booklet on finishes for log homes-- penetrating stains, water repellancy, mildew, and much more. A very valuable resource.
How to protect log homes during construction, how good design helps protect logs, your choices for chemicals and finishes, wood cleaners. Skip Ellsworth seems to be spreading some mis-information about drawknife-peeled logs and their ability to withstand weather - - if you have heard what Ellesworth has said, then you better get a copy of this independent and objective information. Produced by Forintek Canada website , a top government research institute for everything about wood.
Mildew and Finishes 50Kb A short article about mildew and finishes for wood. Some information about mildewcides that can be added to a finish; about finishes that are manufactured with mildewcides in them; and how to prepare a wood surface before you apply a finish to avoid mildew problems. Some very good color photos of bugs that attack wood. The emphasis here is on bugs--which makes sense, in Georgia.
Gin Poles Kb Chapter 5 from the army field engineer's manual, this chapter shows you how to build and rig lifting devices like gin poles, derricks, A-frames, and more. Simple, practical information.
There is not much about gin poles that is in print, and this is some of the best that I have uncovered - - 19 pages of free information. Also, how much you can expect each sort of anchor to hold. Hoists Kb Chapter 3 from the field manual on how to rig for lifting and pulling. It has chapters on engineering specs, drying and shrinkage, decay, gluing, preservation, fire resistance, glu-lams, fasteners, finishing, wooden bridges, and plenty more.
Totals more than pages. Each chapter can be downloaded for free as a PDF. This has a lot of great information, and much of it de-bunks the half-truths and misunderstandings that are widespread. Index to all chapters that can be downloaded. Not a download, this is a web-link to the Forest Products Laboratory Madison, Wisconsin, USA site where you can see what's in each chapter, and then choose to download chapters one at a time.
All chapters in the book are available for free download from this web site. Mold, mildew, decay -- what it is and how it happen. Clicking on this link will download this one chapter onto your hard drive.
Drying of Wood Kb Chapter 3 from the Wood Handbook deals with the drying of wood -- what is "green" wood? This is very important information-- even some log home builders do not understand how their logs actually dry, and how long it takes, or that shrinkage may not have even started when their logs weigh half as much as they used to. Wrong, no it doesn't!
Round Timbers and Ties Kb Chapter 18 from the Wood Handbook has information on logs, poles, timbers, and ties -- durability, strength, and grading standards. Mike has good chapters on foundations, energy standards, scribing and cutting notches, plumbing, venting, insulation, and more.
The focus is on Alaska's need for energy-efficient homes, but there is plenty of material here about other log building topics. The entire book can be downloaded as one file 20 Megabytes. Or you can choose each chapter one at a time. Index of all chapters that can be downloaded Not a download, this is a web-link to the Alaska State Gov Finance Department site where you can see what's in each of the log building chapters, and then choose to download chapters one at a time.
There is also a button for downloading the entire book as one file. A new page will open if you click on this link. This chapter is about mechanical systems-- heat ducts, plumbing, electrical and so on, and how to install them and deal with settling--good drawings.
Click on the link to download this one chapter. Written by Dalibor Houdek, PhD, and first published in Log Building News 35 September , this is a reprint of a 3-page article about scientific testing done on scribe-fitted log walls and their resistance to fire. Log walls come out great, by the way. This download is courtesy of the International Log Builders Association.
Equilibrium Moisture Content Equlilbrium Moisture Content, also known as EMC, is the moisture content of wood in your area when air drying has come to an end; in other words, the wood has come to equlibrium with the local climate.
Essential for figuring out how much your logs will shrink. Triangle Solutions This is a 2-page 'cheat sheet' for figuring out triangles -- lengths of sides, angles, etc etc.
Very useful for roof design and layout. A classic. A few of the highlights are: Measured drawings for log furniture. Instructions for how to building a log cabin without a chainsaw.
And probably the first-ever drawing of a log scriber with a bubble level attached to it on page 5. It is interesting that they used the bubble scriber only for the corner notches. They used a scratch-scriber for the long grooves. This booklet is rare and out of print. I believe that one of the major causes of damage to some of these log homes was that the owners did NOT keep the throughbolts "hurricane rods" tight as the log wall settled.
I have been in contact with the authors of this article about this. Many of the rods in these houses were loose some by 3" to 6" , 75mm to mm , and when the vertical earthquake waves hit the houses, there was a tremendous mass the walls moving upward.